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Burgundy Wine Cellars

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Type
Red Wine
Hospices de Beaune 1er Cru Brunet 2015

Hospices de Beaune 1er Cru Brunet 2015

Appellation
Volnay 1er Cru
Region
Côte de Beaune
Vintage
2015
Add To Cart
$98.00
 
SKU: EELD02R-15
Overview

​The Cuvee Brunet is made up of superbly situated parcels of Beaune premier cru: Bressandes, Bas de Teurons and Les Cent Vignes, all old vines with the exception of 15% planted in 1999. All the elegance of Beaune, delecate and floral, but with the 2015 oomph of intensity, color and body. Seductive, with back notes of cigar smokiness.​

Producer

HOSPICES DE BEAUNE

Beaune

Elden Selection purchased a barrel of Volnay-Santenot ‘Cuvee Gauvin’ at the Hospices de Beaune charity wine auction in 2013. It was a dream-come-true moment for us. We have lived in Burgundy for over 30 years and the Hospices sale marks a special moment in our calendar. We take pride in our place in the world of Burgundy wine. We are cheerleaders for quality small-production domains. And it’s from these people that we learned the traditions and values that are embodied in the Hospices de Beaune’s wine production. Their vines are a legacy from the very history of Burgundy, donations from landowners for the care of the local population and the upkeep of Burgundian patrimony.

Our Volnay-Santenots has been a treasured vineyard since the earliest mentions of it in the 13th century. But if you want to find it on a map, don’t look in Volnay! The entire vineyard lies wholly in Meursault. But because Meursault is known primarily for its white wines, and the wines made in Les Santenots so closely resemble Volnay, a tradition cross-border courtesy remains.

The vineyard that makes the Cuvee Gauvin sits on two named parcels: 0.72ha in Les Plures and 0.68ha in the superb Santenots du Milieu. It is one of the prides of the Hospices de Beaune.

Vintage

BURGUNDY 2015 VINTAGE

We have resisted writing the Elden Selections Burgundy 2015 harvest report until now (April 2017), mainly to let the hub-bub and hyperbole settle down, but more importantly to be sure that the claims we are about to make are justified. We’ve seen too many vintages vaunted as ‘the year of the century’, when really the wines simply showed well young. Burgundy 2015 is a truly extraordinary vintage. The reds are rich, ripe, balanced and powerful. And from all over the region they express chiseled, focused terroir. Despite their youthful seductive charm, these are wines to keep, with serious ripe tannins already melted into explosive fruit.

Comparisons have been drawn with the 2005 vintage, though there is more concentration in the 2015s than in the 2005s. Like a caterpillar changing to a butterfly, great vintages often go to sleep in the bottle. And 2005 is just reawakening from several ‘dumb’ years. It’s been worth the wait. The wines have metamorphosed. 2015 might be similar. And if the comparison is apt, investors in 2015 should appreciate the youthful beauty of this great vintage now, but be prepared to be patient.

That said, 2005 was no ‘year of the century’. But 2015 is also being compared to 1990, which arguably was. And I hear that Michel Lafarge, one of Burgundy’s respected elders, says he remembers drinking 1929s, and he draws parallels. The whites are a bit more uneven, and early reports claimed that the vintage lacks acidity. Certainly, these are wines which are riper and more luxuriant than the exquisite purity of 2014 white Burgundy. But there is no risk that well-made wines will be overly ample or flabby. The best wines will have benefited from the barrel. Comparisons are drawn to 1985, one of the great vintages in white.

The heterogeneity in 2015 white Burgundy is due to the tricky growing season, which was mostly hot and dry, but which cooled significantly in September. Was it better to pick early or late? And did the wine deserve more or less barrel aging? These are questions which will be answered producer-by-producer, bottle-by-bottle over the coming years. But what is clear is that they 2015s are concentrated, fresh and structured.

We believe that to understand a vintage, it is important to look at the weather. Because Burgundy is a single-grape wine, the only thing that changes from year to year in a producer’s vineyard is the weather. So we look for patterns and try to analyze what makes a good year, a bad year…and in this case, an excellent year.

The winter of 2014-2015 was uneventful. It was never really cold, but when it was, it was dry. Mostly it was mild, so we had more rain than snow. We would need the replenished water reserves in the long hot summer ahead.

April was warm and dry, and bud-burst took place early. Mornings in May were sunny, afternoons cloudy, and overall cool and dry. The vines began to flower in the last week of the month, so we knew we were looking at a harvest in early to mid-September.

In early July, the mood started to mount towards hopeful. The weather had been steady, dry and cool. But slowly during the month, temperatures began to rise, and in the last week of July hit 30C. The flowering had been successful, so there was a good crop on the vines.

Day after day of warm dry conditions brought drought considerations into play. But no hail for once! August continued in this way. Hot and dry. A little welcome rain later in the month, but just enough to keep the stress levels down. But no storms or hail. And extremely healthy fruit on the vine. No rot, no mildew, no odium. The mood was optimistic, even euphoric.

Harvest ostensibly started the first Monday of September. And days later the weather broke, and a cool period set in for ideal harvest conditions, stabilizing acidity levels. It stayed this way until September 12th when the first serious rain in two months fell in the southern part of the region. Harvest was disrupted for a few days, but the 19th, it was pretty much all over.

Appellation

VOLNAY

COTE DE BEAUNE

The village of Volnay is perched on the slope of a hill, above the band of premier cru vines, high up in the Côte de Beaune. The hill itself is oriented slightly differently from the general run of the country so that the vines face south-east rather than east. Volnay has more than 50% of its appellation classified as premier cru. There have been some recent changes, and as of 2006, some of the premiers crus have been combined. Chanlin is now part of Pitures. Les Aussy is now in Le Roncet. Carelle sous la Chapelle and Carelles-Dessous have become Carelle-Dessous la Chapelle. And En l'Ormeau is now part of Les Mitans. The Volnay appellation is twinned with Volnay-Santenots, grown in neighboring Meursault on soils suited to the Pinot Noir grape.

Produced in the commune of Volnay for appellation 'Volnay' and in Meursault for Santenots 1er Cru, appellation Volnay includes 29 premiers crus.

Wines

Volnay admired for its delicacy, its juiciness and its bouquet, is always described (by the non-PC Burgundians, at least) as the most feminine of the Burgundy reds. Though some parcels produce tighter and more muscular Pinot Noir, most Volnay is known for finesse. Color ranges from ruby to garnet, and the nose is famously of violets, though with age you get the classic Burgundy Pinot secondary aromas of spice and undergrowth. But its precocious fruitiness makes it apt to be opened fairly young, especially in delicate vintages.

Terroirs

Oolitic limestone bears a resemblance to the reddish igneous rock porphyry found in the Morvan district. It is pink in color with pale green inclusions and overlain by banks of schist. At the top of the slope, this limestone predominates. Lower down we find white, chalky argovien limestone. Lower still are reddish bathonien limestone, pebbly and with iron content. The soils at the foot of the slope are deeper and more gravelly. Altitudes are in a relatively narrow band at 230-280 meters.

Color

Red wines only - Pinot Noir

White wines from Chardonnay are grown in the climat of Santenots (commune of Meursault) which are entitled to the appellations Mersault 1er Cru or Meursault-Santenots, or Meursault.

Production surface area

1 hectare (ha) = 2.4 acres

206.70 ha (including 117.65 ha premier cru)

Food

Its velvety finesse combined with aromatic intensity makes Volnay a partner for sophisticated poultry dishes, roasted and glazed, which meld with the fruit and spice aromas of the wine. Better still, especially for the premiers crus, is feathered game, stewed or slowly braised, or simply roasted. The intensity of Volnay allows it to go well with many full-flavored cheeses.

Appellations

On the label, the appellations Volnay and Volnay 1er Cru may be followed by the name of a specific vineyard, known as a climat. 'Santenots' is a separate climat lying within the appellation 'Volnay' and classified as premier cru.

The following climats are classified as premier cru:

Carelle-Dessous la Chapelle

Champans

Clos de l'Audignac

Clos de la Barre

Clos de la Bousse-d'Or

Clos de la Cave des Ducs

Clos de la Chapelle

Clos de la Rougeotte

Clos des 60 Ouvrées

Clos des Chênes

Clos des Ducs

Clos du Château des Ducs

Clos du Verseuil

En Chevret

Frémiets

Frémiets - Clos de la Rougeotte

La Gigotte

Lassolle

Le Ronceret

Le Village

Les Angles

Les Brouillards

Les Caillerets

Les Lurets

Les Mitans

Pitures Dessus

Robardelle

Santenots

Taille Pieds

The following climats are village wines from a single vineyard, known as a lieu-dit:

Beau Regard

Cros Martin

En Vaut

Ez Blanches

Ez Echards

La Bouchère

La Cave

La Gigotte

Le Village

Les Aussy

Les Buttes

Les Combes

Les Famines

Les Grands Champs

Les Grands Poisots

Les Jouères

Les Lurets

Les Pasquiers

Les Petits Gamets

Les Petits Poisots

Les Pluchots

Les Serpens

Paux Bois

Sur Roches

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